Wednesday, August 29, 2012

What God made, and men ravished

Srinagar is where the shikaras and houseboats wait for the tourists to return...

The city of Srinagar gets it name from two Sanskrit words, Sri and Nagar, meaning the city of abundance and wealth. Situated on the banks of river Jhelum, the valley’s perhaps greatest wealth is its natural beauty. The shikaras ply the waters of the Jhelum, which criss-crosses through the city, and eventually flows into the Wular Lake – the largest fresh-water lake in Asia. Several lakes add to the scenic beauty of Srinagar, with the Dal Lake perhaps being the most well known of them all. Once a favourite with the elite section of the Mughal society, Srinagar’s Mughal gardens still serve as reminders of their long-ago reign. Nine old bridges across the Jhelum connect the two parts of the city. At every turn poetic picture postcards come alive...

The city of Srinagar has a history that goes back to about 2000 years ago. The city was founded in the 3rd century BC and remained peaceful when it was ruled by the Mauryas and then by King Asoka, who brought Buddhism in the city until it fell to the brutal Huns in the 6th century. The Hindu and the Buddhist rule of Srinagar lasted until the 14th century, when the city came under the control of the Mughals and Akbar established his rule in Srinagar.

After the disintegration of the Mughal empire, the city came under the influence of Sikhs and remained one of the princely states during the British colonisation. Gulab Singh was appointed the independent ruler until it became a part of independent India in 1947. Political unrest in the 80s and 90s drove the tourists away and left the houseboats empty, but the situation has improved in the last few years. It continues to be a high security zone with army scattered everywhere in the city. There are bunkers and checkpoints after every 200 meters (or less), and you can be stopped and frisked (or even roughed up) at the slightest suspicion. The locals seem to have accepted this as a way of everyday life. Tourists are advised to check the latest updates before setting forth for Srinagar.

Those who do reach the city, will find the lakes and gardens waiting to beguile them into a world unlike any other. A pyramidal hill, a thousand feet in height, stands by the side of the Dal Lake, supporting the ancient stone temple of Shankaracharya, the oldest shrine in Kashmir. The waters of the Dal reflect the willow and poplar trees lining its edges, as vividly-painted shikaras carry tourists from all parts of the world. Shikaras are a novel way of seeing Srinagar, and are perhaps the reason why Srinagar has earned the title of the Venice of the East. They ferry rides to and fro the banks of the lakes and the houseboats and floating gardens. The magnificent Mughal gardens compliment the startling beauty of the Dal Lake. However, out of about 500 gardens laid down by the Mughals in the 16th and 17th century, only a handful are still there today.


Posted by at
Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,